Some 15km before we arrived, Fred noticed curious handling characteristics, pointing to something amiss with the suspension.  Close inspection revealed one of the rear shock absorbers neatly folded in two!  So much for buying the expensive, heavy duty, long lasting brand – we had to send a faulty one back in the UK and now this!  Fred swiftly removed the offending article and we went on a wild goose chase to track down another in Ghom (after swapping our Jools Holland tape for some Middle Eastern music). 

Spent an hour and a half in Ghom looking but unsuccessful.  Many helpful people took Fred all over the place – but to no avail.  Ultimately, we gave up and continued to Kashan where we managed to locate the only hotel in town.  A couple of Dutch guys  were checking in as we arrived.  They were driving as far as Nepal before driving back to Holland – so we’re not the only nutters!  Ther had travelled through Syria and Jordan on the way here, which sounded interesting.  They took us under their wing and we went out for a meal together.  It was great chatting to them.  Thanks for your company, guys.  Good luck on your travels.