Sunday 5 March 2000

We first visited the Mosque, the only part of the complex that is still in use.  Every step of the way was constant hassle.  Nobody believes that you could possibly want to go in without a guide or without buying a pile of junk!  Similar inside the Mosque.  A guy approached us and started explaining things about the architecture and the mosque.  We informed him that we did not want a guide.  But he insisted that he was doing this because he was a student of the mosque and wished to improve his English (yeah, right!).  We gave in because it was easier.  He provided us with a tour of the mosque, including the tomb of someone whose name I have forgotten.  The tomb was screened by delicate marble screens and was decorated with mother of pearl. 

Following the tour of the Mosque we visited the inevitable craft and marble workshop.  For the first time, we did actually by something – there was a nice set of candlesticks at the right price.  We then went out behind the main part of the city to look at the old Caravanserai and a tower that was built in memory of  a favourite elephant.  We were then led back to our car.  We left without seeing the bulk of the deserted city as we couldn’t face pushing through the touts again. 

Our journey today was only short and we arrived at the Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur around lunchtime.  This left plenty of time to enjoy the birdlife and scenary in the park.  We took a fantastic boat ride into the wetlands and saw many different birds, and an antelope.  We also undertook a rather unsuccessful night safari in an attempt to see porcupines, jungle cats, hissing cats and a potential panther.  The only animal that we spotted was a rather tame hissing cat that is fed at the local temple!  We did look for 2 hours though.