Spotted that the shop next to the hotel had Landrover picture in its window.  Finally!  We had initially thought that it would be easy to find somewhere selling spares as there are so many landrovers on the road.  However, it actually transpires that most of these are actually Iranian copies and even the ones that look like 110s and 90s actually still have leaf springs.  Needless to say, this meant that finding the right length shock absorber was virtually impossible.  In the end they found one that was near enough the right length for general road use (it was a little on the long side if we need to go off-road).  Fred reckons that it will do until we get to the Landrover dealer in either Pakistan or India.  The shock absorber was duly fitted to the vehicle in the hotel carpark, before we set off on the shortish hop to Bam. 

Queued in long line of trucks for diesel (filling up with fuel in Iran can be something of an ordeal as they don’t have diesel cars so you have to wait with all of the trucks.  The pumps are extremely slow and truck tanks very large.  Mind you, fuel is just about given away!).  We waited 25 minutes and then the only pump that was working broke down.  We gave up and continued on our way.  Arrived at Bam late afternoon.  Located the filling station.  Dutifully queued and eventually filled our tanks.  Next task – match map to town and locate hotel.  Fuel station is on map and it should have been simple – unfortunately this was not the case but we found somewhere eventually, dumped our things and sprinted down the road to get to the Arg e Bam citadel before it shut and before the light went. 

We arrived with 15 minutes to spare.  Arg e Bam is the remains of an ancient citadel built from mud bricks and covered with wattle and daub.  Its fortified walls and the buildings within are gradually being restored but it is a very impressive sight, all the same.  Unfortunately, we really didn’t have the time to explore as we didn’t want to risk being barricaded in for the night.  We trundled back to the Guesthouse via the Bazaar and town.  Met up with a couple of Irish guys, who were travelling after attending a conference in Tehran.  Had dinner with them, cooked by the Guesthouse owners wife.  Very good.